The truth about your skincare and what is in it
The self-care market is magnanimous, with new beauty and skin care products popping up daily. From Sunday market stalls with their hand-made creams and masks, to best-beauty-buy lists in every monthly Vogue and Elle magazine. With ingredients you may have heard of, like the classic vitamins A, B, C and E, to more obscure ones that can leave you thinking ‘is that even a real thing’ or ‘sounds a little scientifically scary’?
To help you navigate through the confusion, we have decided to work through our A - Z of popular skin care ingredients, so you will have a good idea of what your skin therapist is talking about when you schedule a skin analysis, and they begin to talk about the benefits of using professional skin care products.
What is most important
It is important to remember that just because something has fun and pretty packaging, sounds like it does a good job, and works effortlessly for someone else, doesn't mean it’s the right skin solution for you. It’s important to consider your skin condition and circumstances first – purely from a safety standpoint. Likewise, when something is stamped natural or organic, it does not necessarily mean it's categorically safe for your particular skin type or the best product for your skin condition. Some things in nature irritate, harm, and can even poison; this is why it is so important to seek professional help and have a thorough skin analysis before creating a skin care routine.
As we mentioned above, the numerous names, buzzwords, and scientific terms included with self-care can be tricky to navigate. Although this is not an exhaustive list, we will scratch the surface and give you great insight into what the ingredients in your skin care products actually do. That way you will be equipped with more knowledge and understanding when you hear these terms and talk to your skin therapist about our Saint Mineral makeup, Lira Clinical skin care products and range of professional skin treatments.
Your A-Z of skin care ingredients
A is for…AHA, or alpha-hydroxy-acids. Prominent examples you’ll likely see listed as ingredients are Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid and Mandelic Acid. These are excellent for exfoliation, anti-ageing and pigmentation and are best applied at night as they can make your skin more sun sensitive.
BHA or Beta Hydroxy Acid as those in the know, know, is another exfoliant. However, unlike AHA, which is water soluble and works on the skin surface, BHA's are oil soluble. Therefore they are great for penetrating deeper into the skin. Exactly what you want when treating acne. Salicylic Acid is a commonly used BHA.
B is also for…Benzoyl Peroxide, an acne-fighting ingredient that kills bacteria, clears dead skin cells and prevents pores from becoming blocked through the exfoliation of excess sebum and dead skin build up.
C is for…Ceramides. These are lipids (fatty acids) aka the glue that holds the skin together. The skin loses ceramides as part of the natural ageing process as well as from overuse of exfoliants. They also help to protect and repair the skin barrier and retain water, reducing the occurrence of inflammatory skin conditions.
F is for…Fatty Acids are labelled under a few different names – Glycerides, Sterols, Phospholipids, Omega 3, and Omega 6. Fatty acids help prevent water loss from the skin; you will find them in moisturisers and as thickening agents in other products.
G is for…Glycolic Acid, which breaks down the bonds between the outer layers of dead skin cells and the new layers of skin underneath, acting as a peeling agent that helps the skin to look smoother and have a more even texture.
G is also for…Glycerin also known as Glycerol, is a humectant which is a fancy word for a moisturising agent that pulls water in from the environment around it. This means that when applied to the skin, it will draw water from both the deeper layers of the skin and the environment to keep your skin looking hydrated.
H is for…Hyaluronic Acid is commonly found in ointments, serums and moisturisers. Hyaluronic Acid helps skin heal and rejuvenate. Great for healthier, more supple-looking skin because of its ability to retain moisture (up to 1000 times its weight.) Hyaluronic Acid also speeds the process of wound healing and can reduce scarring—another win for those with acne.
L is for…Lactic Acid a member of the AHA family, Lactic Acid increases cell turnover and removes accumulated dead skin cells. It also helps to lighten dark spots and improves the texture of the top layers of skin because, when applied, the skin will become thicker and firmer, resulting in fewer fine lines and wrinkles.
N is for…Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B, significantly decreases hyperpigmentation, redness and blotchiness as well as increasing the lightness of your skin. Additionally, it protects your skin against further sun damage, minimises pore appearance, acts as a lipid barrier, and helps skin immunity while regulating oil production. It is a powerhouse product.
O is for…Omega 3’s regulate oil production from the skin, resulting in fewer breakouts, an improved balance in skin dehydration and irritation, and softer, more youthful-looking skin. These fatty acids prevent skin water loss and create protective barriers against free radicals. Commonly found in oils and waxes, and can be taken as a supplement for great skin health.
P is for…Peptides naturally occur in the skin as they are the building blocks for collagen. With similar benefits to retinol for skin rejuvenation, peptides are best used for sensitive skin, as Vitamin A (Retinol and Retinoids) can be too harsh.
R is for…Retinol and Retinoids are terms that are often used interchangeably, as they are the same but different. Both are vitamin A derivatives, but retinoids are only available with a prescription as they are more potent, while retinol can be purchased over the counter and is found in many quality skin care products. Both have anti-ageing, anti-scarring and acne-healing properties. However, depending on your skin goals and what you need it for, retinoids with higher potency will work faster, and retinol with a lower concentration of vitamin A will be less effective.
S is for…Salicylic Acid, as mentioned above is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) widely used for exfoliation and clearing pores. It works best for mild acne in the case of blackheads and whiteheads.
T is for…Titanium oxide is found in many mineral makeup and sunscreens because of its ability to reflect and scatter damaging UVA and UVB rays off the skin's surface. It is excellent for those with sensitive skin who need skin sun protection, but chemical sunscreen is too harsh.
V is for…Vitamins. We will not include vitamin A or B here as they have already been mentioned above in Retinols and Niacimade. Vitamin C is a powerhouse of antioxidants for the skin. It has been proven to slow the skin from ageing, prevent sun damage and improve the appearance of the skin when it comes to acne, wrinkles and pigmentation. Vitamin E is also an antioxidant for the skin and is great for hyperpigmentation. In addition, Vitamin E helps to strengthen the skin barrier and reduces the appearance of scarring and stretch marks.
Z is for...Zinc Oxide is a terrific alternative to regular sunscreen. Due to its antimicrobial and non-pore-clogging properties, it is the perfect choice of sunscreen for those with sensitive skin, rosacea and redness. In addition, those that have encountered sunburn should use this also, as its antimicrobial properties will aid the healing process of sunburn and the skin damage effects of it.
When it comes to understanding skin care products, there are many terms and ingredients that are flaunted as ‘the best’ thing for your skin. The above ingredients are some of the main ones you will come across regularly. Although understanding what is in your skin care is super important, to know that it’s going to help you achieve your skin goals, nothing can replace the importance of a skin analysis, that will allow you to get to know your skin in its uniqueness and determine which products are most suitable for your skin and skin type. You can watch a video on Youtube to fix an issue with your car, but you can only be sure it will be the best solution if you have expert knowledge of how everything else works under the hood. The same goes for your skin. Without professional advice, you could be doing more damage than good.
Get your skin in the safest hands – book a skin analysis and receive the best skin advice, click here.